Latest Mezcal News

Mezcal - tequilas kindred spirit - is making a comeback

SANTA CATARINA MINAS, Mexico --
Centuries before anyone ever heard of a margarita machine, before tequila shots became a rite of passage and "with or without salt" entered the bartending lexicon, Mexicans were distilling the exotic fruit of the agave plant.

They didn't call it tequila back then. They called it mezcal.

But unlike the famous concoction that gave the world household names such as Jose Cuervo and Don Julio, mezcal -- the 'poor man's tequila'-- has nourished an inferiority complex for decades.

Finally, thanks to new quality-control measures and increasingly successful micro-distilleries, fans of the forgotten drink are touting a mezcal renaissance: Exports are rising, new plants are being built and food critics are gushing.

'True mezcals are like the finest wines in the world,' said U.S. mezcal importer Ron Cooper in Taos, N.M. 'They change because of the microclimate and the hand of the maker. And they're incredibly diverse in flavor.'

Many Americans know mezcal as the clear elixir with the worm in the bottle, thanks to a 1950s-era marketing gimmick. Traditional producers never sold it that way.

The worm was bad enough, but years of lax quality control and adulterated exports also gave the ancient brew a rotgut reputation, which authentic producers now find hard to dispel.

'People are afraid of it. They don't know it can be a high-quality item,' said Brady Matthews, bartender at Reata Restaurant in downtown Fort Worth, Texas, which serves explosively tasty Del Maguey. ``A lot of people think mezcal is a dirty liquor, not refined as much.''

Even in Mexico, where Kentucky whiskey and island rum have pushed aside traditional drinks, many have lost touch with the taste of authentic mezcal. Mezcal maker Eduardo Angeles recalls the reaction he got from an 82-year-old man who recently tried his hand-crafted Real Minero.

He said, 'I thought I was going to die before tasting another mezcal like that,' Angeles said.

'Maguey' is the common word for agave -- Greek for 'noble plant.' Long before Columbus reached the New World, indigenous tribes used it for clothing, construction, food and, yes, alcoholic beverages. But researchers say Spanish conquistadors first distilled the fermented maguey drink, known as pulque.

The new quality-control laws and a rigorous certification process -- now required for all exports -- are beginning to redeem mezcal's reputation, promoters said.

Some traditional producers are finally enjoying commercial success. Los Danzantes and Los Amantes are exporting small quantities and Del Maguey has seen its business grow 15 percent. 'There is definitely a niche for such a product,' said Bill Shehadeh, who sells Del Maguey at Select Wine & Spirits in Sacramento, Calif. 'The people that do drink it... they're just in awe that we have it.'

Mezcal still represents a tiny fraction of tequila-dominated liquor exports from Mexico. Shehadeh said the problem was that large tequila producers devoted millions to advertising, while mezcal makers were struggling just to let people know they weren't putting out worm-laden, rotgut liquor.

After the regulations took effect in 2005, mezcal exports dropped as producers struggled to meet the new requirements. But exports to the United States are up 5 percent in the first half of this year compared with last year, U.S. trade figures show. And Beneva -- which bottles the widely available Monte Alban mezcal -- inaugurated a modern $1 million plant Sept. 11 in Oaxaca in southern Mexico, the epicenter of Mexican mezcal production, that's the largest of its kind to date

However, mezcal hasn't entirely outgrown its rough and ready reputation.

Although the worm seems to have outstayed its welcome, a new brand has made a big splash by bottling a different kind of critter.

The label says it all: Scorpion.

BY JAY ROOT
McClatchy News Service

 

Mezcal Film from Director Ignacio Ortiz

Director Ignacio Ortiz's film 'Mezcal' takes a page from Malcolm Lowry's 1947 novel

By Reed Johnson, Los Angeles Times Staff Writer

MEXICO CITY -- There's a saying that people here use when knocking back a shot of mescal, the spirit distilled from the agave plant with a fiery sting like the devil's own pitchfork: "Para todo mal, mescal. Para todo bien, también." For everything bad, mescal -- and for everything good, as well.

Malcolm Lowry, the British author whose 1947 novel "Under the Volcano" is easily the best book ever written about mescal and whose own battles with the bottle were the stuff of legend, undoubtedly would have toasted to that judicious proverb.

Set in 1939 in the Mexican provincial city of Cuernavaca (which Lowry called by its Aztec name, Quauhnahuac), "Under the Volcano" chronicles the final tragic hours in the life of Geoffrey Firmin, a dipsomaniacal British consul unable to shake his personal demons. Miraculously reunited that morning with his estranged actress-wife, Yvonne, the consul squanders his last chance at redemption and, through a string of inebriated misunderstandings, is killed and flung into a ravine.

Critics repeatedly have declared "Under the Volcano" to be one of the 20th century's literary monuments. Lowry's prose has provoked many imitators, and his masterpiece inspired a 1984 movie adaptation directed by John Huston, starring Albert Finney and Jacqueline Bisset. Though written by a Cambridge-schooled Englishman, "Under the Volcano" is revered by many Mexicans for being among the most discerning modern depictions of their country's convulsive and incendiary character, along with Juan Rulfo's "Pedro Páramo," published eight years later.

"It's an English novel, its point of view, but it's a Mexican tragedy," says Mexican screenwriter and director Ignacio Ortiz, who first read Lowry's book 30 years ago. "For me, it's the great modern Mexican tragedy about Mexico."

Now Ortiz has become the latest artist to borrow a page, or several, from Lowry, who died 50 summers ago. In his feature film "Mezcal," which finally has reached theaters here after repeatedly being rejected by distributors, Ortiz uses "Under the Volcano" as a jumping-off point into his own sulfurous odyssey.

"Mezcal" bears little resemblance in plot to "Under the Volcano," but it channels the novel in subtle ways, thematic and imagistic. When he first considered making his film several years ago, Ortiz says, he deliberately erased the book from his mind, because "there would be the temptation to make an adaptation of the novel, and the novel is unadaptable."

Though he calls Huston "a great, great director" who knew Mexico well and made other movies here including "The Treasure of the Sierra Madre," he thinks that Huston's "Under the Volcano" fell short, partly because so much of the novel's action occurs inside the consul's mind. Huston "tried, but he did not obtain the substance of the novel, its soul," Ortiz says.

Shot on a sinewy $1.3-million budget over six weeks in 2004, "Mezcal" (which uses the traditional Mexican spelling of the word) was shunned by most Mexican distributors despite strong critical notices and its winning several Ariel awards, Mexico's equivalent of the Oscars. When distributors passed again and again on "Mezcal," the producers made 10 copies of the film in order to begin showing it in Mexico City and other urban centers.

Fortunately, Ortiz already had a track record. His previous screenplays and two feature films -- the 1994 "La orilla de la tierra" (The Edge of the Earth), about a migrant worker returning from the U.S. to Mexico, and the 2002 time-traveling historical drama "Cuentos de hadas para dormir cocodrilos" (Bedtime Fairy Tales for Crocodiles) -- have been praised within and outside Mexico. Slightly more than half the budget for "Mezcal" came from the government's Quality in Cinema fund.

Although Lowry published one other novel, "Ultramarine," and left two more novels ("Dark as the Grave Wherein My Friend Is Laid" and "October Ferry to Gabriola"), short stories and a profusion of letters to be published posthumously, his reputation clearly rests on "Under the Volcano." He didn't live to see his chef d'oeuvre make it to the big screen, something he always longed for and a fate that carries a certain irony. As the writer and critic Stephen Spender has noted, the book's technique "is essentially cinematic," employing flashbacks, jump-cuts and other methods resembling movie editing.

Lowry's book focuses on Firmin's private torments and the tangled relationship among him, Yvonne and the consul's reckless, adventure-loving half-brother, Hugh, as they wander the provincial colonial streets on the Day of the Dead. The consul's descent into a solitary hell evokes the pitch-black pilgrimages of Faust and Dante. Dimly in the background hovers the specter of a rotted-out Europe, about to plunge into World War II.

Though the consul turns to beer, whiskey and even strychnine to treat his sick soul, mescal is his libation of choice (a preference shared by many Mexicans, particularly in the provinces, who prefer the smokier, more home-grown taste of mescal to its generally smoother, better-known cousin, tequila). One of the novel's great internal debates is whether his epic indulgence in this infernal liquid brings him tragic clarity or merely confusion and despair. As John Hartley Williams wrote in a June essay in the Guardian of London, "alcohol abuse in Lowry's book signifies human failure on a cosmic level."

"Mezcal" likewise aspires to present a cosmic vision of human suffering and longing, collapsed into the microcosm of a remote Mexican village. It tracks the (mis)fortunes of a motley crew of characters who end up converging on a dingy cantina in the mythical hamlet of El Parián in rural Oaxaca state. Like the consul and Yvonne, the two central characters, played by Ana Graham and Dagoberto Gama, are locked in a fateful, and ultimately fatal, erotic embrace.

"When I began to make [the movie] I had this idea, this impression, a story of a doomed romantic encounter," Ortiz says.

Yet rather than being afflicted with the very modern, transatlantic malaise of Lowry's protagonists, the characters in "Mezcal" are trapped in some quintessential Mexican psycho-dramas: the thirst for revenge and the search for a responsive God. Their beverage of choice, which fuels their passions, is, naturally, mescal, a regional specialty of Oaxaca.

Throughout the movie, a group of village drunks provides a kind of Greek chorus, tapping a rage, sadness and fatalism that Ortiz believes is one of Mexico's chief spiritual inheritances from its traumatic history of conquest. "There's a sense of being unprotected," he says.

That sense finds a correlative in the movie's electric penultimate scene, in which a rampaging horse and a raging thunderstorm converge in a violent mishap. Ortiz says he was inspired to find visual equivalents to Lowry's lyrical sensibility (the British author also wrote poetry). Many images in "Mezcal" are richly poetic: a VW Beetle burning on the edge of a cliff; a mother hiding her son beneath her skirts in an earthen pit; a dead woman lying in water, Ophelia-like. In keeping with its literary-cinematic mixed breeding, "Mezcal" quotes from Shakespeare's "The Tempest" and "Hamlet" as well as from "Under the Volcano."

In a critique in the magazine Letras Libres, Fernanda Solórzano wrote that "Mezcal" demonstrated that Ortiz "is perhaps the only Mexican director capable of expressing in images the means of magical realism or of the indigenous mythology without falling into tastelessness nor slipping into folklore." Solórzano also reproached the distributors who passed on the film because, she wrote, they were "reluctant to exhibit a movie about Mexico without a happy ending."

Ortiz surely would agree with that characterization of his film. "In 'Mezcal' the idea was characters that don't have solace, they can't be in peace," he says.

   

Mezcals Electric Buzz

Mezcal's Electric Buzz

Not surprisingly, the Food & Wine Classic comprises mostly of food- and wine-related seminars and tastings, but the event's singular spirits seminar was the most lively I attended this weekend. Yesterday afternoon in a jam-packed room at the Sky Hotel, tequila evangelist Steven Olson led a tasting of extra-anejo mezcal (mezcal is an agave-based spirit produced anywhere in Mexico; tequila is mezcal produced in one of five designated Mexican states), which included bottles that range in retail price from $175-$450 and are so scarce that mezcal geeks (a rapidly growing force) pay several times more online. The seminar was so sought-after that even legendary mixologist Dale DeGroff couldn't land a seat.
 
There was a huge mezcal buzz elsewhere in Aspen. Del Maguey, which produces several single-village mezcals, had one of the most popular booths at the Grand Tasting. Montagna sommelier, Richard Betts, who is a unabashed mezcal fiend, couldn't stop talking about the stuff. (Partly because he's launching his own mezcal label later this year). Betts, Olson and several other wine and spirits experts said this weekend that mezcal is the next big trend in spirits. After tasting about 20 fantastic mezcals this weekend, I think they're right.

Source: FoodandWine.com
By Nick Fauchald, Senior Associate Food Editor
   

Mountains of Mezcal

I’ll never forget my first encounter with Mezcal; it happened in the clouds. My anthropologist friend Michael and I were zigzagging along the treacherous mountain roads of the Mexican state of Oaxaca, near Santo Domingo Albarradas—literally driving in the clouds—when we came upon a rustic roadside distillery where an old palenquero (mezcal maker) was tending to a large, steaming copper vat of mezcal. Before you could say salud, Michael had pulled his petrol-fume-filled VW bus off to the side of the road and was engaged in conversation with the palenquero. As for me, having spent the better part of the day being carsick, I was just happy to be back on terra firma. Little did I know then that carsickness is a walk in the park compared to mezcal fever.

Although many Americans seem to think otherwise, mezcal (also spelled mescal) has zero to do with the hallucinatory drug mescaline—except that drinking mezcal also can bring on sights, sounds and scenes that live strictly in your skull. Trust me on this one; I’ve been there. After a night of sipping premium mezcal at a bar in Oaxaca, I spent the better part of an hour trying to get a window screen and frame in my little apartment to stop vibrating even though it was, by other witnesses’ accounts, perfectly still.

Anyway, sampling mezcal while driving the already perilous roads of Oaxaca is not something I recommend. Better to do it in the safety of your own crib or near your hotel if you’re visiting Mexico. It’s not easy to find much mezcal diversity here in the United States, with the Monte Alban brand being the default mezcal that most stores and bars carry, including those in the state of Utah. Not that there is anything wrong with Monte Alban ($22.95); it’s just that once you try it, it’s unlikely you’ll ever go back for a second bottle.

The homebrew mezcal I first tasted in the Oaxacan mountains was rotgut, but since then, I’ve sampled premium mezcals in the city of Oaxaca, some of which are downright as refined as premium tequila. And as with tequila, good mezcal is made from 100 percent agave. In fact, technically speaking, all tequila is mezcal, although not all mezcal is tequila—but that’s another story. Tequila and mezcal are also similar in alcohol content, at about 40 percent. However, it’s mezcal, not tequila, that has the worm at the bottom of the bottle. And actually it’s not a worm, but the caterpillar of a mariposa night butterfly which feeds on the maguey (agave) plant. Frankly, I’ve never been offered a worm (or lime or salt) with mezcal in Oaxaca, where most of it is made. That only seems to happen in tourist establishments in places like Cabo and Cancun.

A good, premium mescal—like some of those made by quality producers such as Divino, Del Maguey, Scorpion, La Fogata and Los Danzantes—is worth seeking out. They can even be sipped like cognac and—thanks to their rich, smoky taste—actually pair quite nicely with premium cigars.

Source:
The Salt Lake City Weekly, by Ted Scheffler

   

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